Jeff
Cacossa's Semester at Sea FAQ's
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The following are some Frequently Asked Questions
I receive.
I was the last class on board the old ship, so some of the specifics
of ship life may have changed.
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Q: Which classes would you recommend?
A: I took the following:
Core- this is mandatory- a good overview of each country
with guest speakers from each.
Languages of the World- very interesting if you're into linguistics.
Pretty extensive field reports from each country, in which you have to
ask the natives to translate sentences for you in order to decode the structure of the language. Don't take this if
you're shy about talking to strangers.
International Business- also new and interesting. Most
of the concepts you've never thought about before but are intuitive in
retrospect, e.g. what are the dis/advantages of franchises abroad?
Why are there no McDonalds' in India? (think 'sacred cows') What are Japan's
comparative advantages? I enjoyed it.
World Politics- somewhat ambitious, an excellent political
background for each country.
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Q: Which trips would you recommend?
A: Some countries are better seen by yourself, some through
SAS. But in all countries you should try to take the SAS city
orientations. It's really interesting, comprehensive, and you have
a blast with all the people from the ship. You spend one day and
you feel like you've seen everything, so that the next days you can relax
and get a taste of the culture. Otherwise, you spend four days wandering aimlessly, hoping that you've seen everything, feeling guilty if you didn't.
Japan: Osaka is great to explore at night. I also
went to Kyoto, which is full of beautiful temples and gardens, but not
as much nightlife. Friends went to Hiroshima (where The Bomb was dropped), which they said they enjoyed very much--very moving--plus you get to ride the bullet train.
Some went to Tokyo, but I think it might be too far and expensive for the
time you have. I also went to the Toshiba Himeji Works, which is
interesting but just a television factory--not as worthwhile for me.
Hong Kong: There is plenty to do and see here--highlights
tour is a good orientation from which to explore on your own. Definitely find your way to the top of the mountain with a "friend" for one of the most gorgeous views you'll find anywhere.
Vietnam: Wear your backpack on your chest with both hands
clutched to it at all times. We saw many an SAS student crying on
the street after two men on a motorcycle, one to drive and one to cut the
straps, stole their backpack and money, credit cards, cameras, passports,
and most importantly, used film. Definitely buy and use one of those flat
wallets that straps to your chest or your waist. In Ho Chi Mihn,
the Reunification Palace can probably be skipped. War Crimes Museum
is tremendously moving and revoltingly graphic--unsettling for your patriotism.
Otherwise, Cu Chi tunnels and Mekong Delta are worth it. Cao Dai
can definitely be skipped. I wish I had gone to Angkor Wat.
Ho Chi Minh is the one city in which I felt most uncomfortable--take SAS
trips if you can. Oh- go to any big hotel and get a ridiculous massage
very cheap.
India: Mahabalipuram is excellent--gorgeous scenery and
carvings. Rotarian homestay is a tradeoff: you see family, work and
city life very closely, and get fed the most unbelievable food for
three days (get a taste for it before you go so that you don't waste a
second acclimating yourself, which I would say of any country), but on the
other hand, I wondered whether I wouldn't be spending my time more productively
travelling with friends (I stayed with the family by myself). I regret
not having seen the Taj Mahal.
Egypt: Unless you're being punished by The Cap'n (for
returning to the ship late on previous trips), you have no excuse for not
seeing Cairo. Of all the trips to make, this is the one.
Pyramids are surreal. Get up before dawn (or the night before--stay up
all night) and hire a camel jockey to ride you there. Or hire horses
and camels for peanuts and ride out yourself. Get this--no experience
necessary!! I learned how to ride a horse by myself in the middle
night and the middle of the desert. Dangerous, but until my last
day on earth unforgettable. Climb the pyramids (you'll hear about
fines but I don't think that's true--no one stopped us--worth ten fines,
anyway) and down in them. Definitely go to the Egyptian museum.
The mosque is beautiful.
Israel: I liked Masada and the Dead Sea--especially
the Dead Sea. Don't stay in Ashdod--take a train to Jerusalem and
stay with friends in a hostel. Go to bars at night and meet people.
In the day, definitely take a tour (with SAS or with a local) if you're
religious in the least--even if you're not, you'd miss too much without.
Turkey: Do the orientation because there's a lot to see
and the city's a maze. Definitely find a bath house--for a small
fee you get a sauna and massage that'll make you feel like you haven't
been travelling like a maniac for the last two months. Unsafe to
travel alone: men as much as women. Boat tours of the Bosphorus are
relaxing but perhaps a little too slow. Sufi Dervish (the people that meditate while spinning around) gets old to watch and can be skipped. The idea of performing meditation is oxymoronic as it is.
Morocco: Go to the Casablanca bar if you must, but know
that it was never in the movie (filmed in Hollywood, if I've been correctly
informed) and that you're just sitting in a hotel paying too much for a
g&t. On the ship, though, they'll probably play the movie and
if you've never seen it, its worth the time. You can probably see
Casablanca (the city) in a day (the old market and the new mosque are the
only things that stick out in my memory), so you might want to leave.
Marrakech is interesting, and will make you realize, unlike Casablanca,
that you are truly in another world. Ourika Valley has a nice view
but is not necesary.
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Q: How much extra money is needed while
on the ship and at the ports of call?
A: I had the following expenses:
On the ship:
laundry: 75c/machine. In humid, dirty countries like Vietnam
or India, you wash more clothes because at the end of the day, you feel
like a dirty, grimy, sweaty little monkey.
beers: $2 at the ship's bar (there is no drinking age at sea),
but beware: don't drink heavily the first few nights, before you get adjusted to the rocking of the ocean, or you will spend the night and next day in a hell to make Satan jealous.
gifts: you'll probably want to buy some goodies for the 'rents
at the gift shop on the ship. The t-shirts are pretty boring so don't
buy until you've seen what people have brought. Some enterprising
souls generally print up their own shirts and then sell them (although,
for legal reasons, they can't actually say "Semester at Sea").
And in ports:
food: My biggest expense 'cause I'm a damn pig.
At every port you can always eat for free on the ship, so at the very least, save up for one good local meal. In Japan, you'll pay twice
to three times as much, including McDonalds (which you find in almost every
country. I ate in some because I did a final project comparing them,
but do yourself a favor and don't pick food as the expense to tighten your
belt on. There's no better way to know a country than through it's
stomach, and I have the utmost disrespect for people who are afraid to
try new things. You have the rest of your life to "enjoy" a cheeseburger but will eternally regret having been in Japan and not having gone out for a single good meal. Also, I enjoyed local dives a lot more than fancy, expensive restaurants that just play on American stereotypes--I wasn't in Asia to go to Disney World.) In Russia, Vietnam, China, and Egypt, you'll probably eat for much less. Be careful in Morocco, Israel, and Hong Kong, because you can get a good meal cheap but can also pay much more than you would've thought or needed to. You have to be agressive, but try not to eat without knowing the prices. Also, don't buy drinks at bars for local women who approach you, because one scam is that they order the one drink not on the menu,
for $200, which the bouncers then help you find.
film: God help you if you run out. If you can find
it, it costs about three sheep per roll. Buy cheap and in bulk in
the states--I went through about twenty rolls. And bring at least
two cameras--both of mine were stolen.
gifts: Huge expense. You will see something you
can't live without about every five minutes. Don't even think
about
paying more than a half of what people ask when they approach you in the
street. In India and Egypt, about a fifth. Don't let anyone
convince you that they are shocked at your offer--they revel in this little
game (I shouldn't say that--the stakes are higher for them). They'll mock you and laugh and pretend to walk away.
Let them--they'll stop you before you take your next step. A great
free gift is in Japan, where you can ask at most movie theatres and they
give you little 8.5x11" movie posters, in Japanese, of the current movies.
*Buy a newspaper in your last port so you can pack everything for the trip
home. Wrap particularly fragile things in socks or shirts that are
going home anyway.
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Q: How many days are spent at sea at
one time?
A: About two weeks for each ocean crossing (at the beginning and end of the trip) and from three days to two weeks between ports.
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Q: At the ports of call, do the students
have opportunities to get a feel for the different cultures? Do
they have the opportunity to do things away from the tourist sections?
A: I'd say that like nothing else you've ever done, the
entire experience is what you make of it. If you spend the months
before your time in port looking at travel guides and maps, then you will have that much more time to spend in the markets
and streets and bars of each city. (I keep saying bars because they're
just a great way to meet local people--I wouldn't waste any time in port hungover) On some tours, you must stay with the group,
but in general SAS is great about letting you do your own thing--leaving
the tour whenever you decide to. Definitely dissect the tour the
night before with friends and decide what you're interested in and when
you want to take off or meet back up with the group. Tours are for
your sake, not theirs.
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Q: What is the general age range of students
on the ship?
A: Most of the students are US and Canadian sophomore
and junior-year college students. There are also some college seniors,
who spend their last semester on the ship, as well as a number of international college students. There are also natives from every port that board
at the stop before their country so they can talk and meet you -- get to
know them, they are very approachable and great friends, besides being
a tremendous "resource" before and in port. Then there are the older
passengers--the SAPs--who can be conned into believing that this term is
the affectionate acronym for "Senior Adult Passengers". Just kidding--most saps are really pretty cool--give them a chance. A lot of them have
made the voyage several times and know the countries really well--where
to shop, eat, etc. Besides, some of us will be saps someday too.
The last, and certainly not least (energetic), group is the YAPs, which
is actually short for: "energylessly bouncing young children of professors who should not be constrained to a ship of any size--God knows I couldn't've been--for
any period of time longer than two days". They run the full gamut of ages
and temperaments and may even take some of your trips or wreck some of
your class curves. Some have lived in the countries you visit and
are more interesting to talk to than your fellow students.
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Q: Are the bathrooms/showers community
or private?
A: Very small but private. Each room of two or
three people (on my ship, anyway) had its own.
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Q: What was your favorite part of the
trip?
A: Some people hated it but I had a really great experience in Japan.
Besides its ridiculous technology, the people were the most respectful,
gracious, helpful people I had ever met. When we asked one man for
directions, he insisted on taking us three blocks out of his way to show
us where to go. Everything is clean and I felt extremely safe.
Osaka is filled with lights and people--very fun at night.
Otherwise, the best part is being with the friends you make there--going
out for dinner, to local bars, exploring the countries. It sounds
cheesy, but the common experience is so unique and overwhelming, you make
the make the greatest friends of your life.
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Q: Do you have any complaints about
the ship and/or experience?
A: That it ends. (Oh, waaaaah, I know, but it's
true--you'll see.)
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Q: Is it cheaper to buy a nice camera
in Hong Kong or in the States?
A: It might be a bit cheaper in Hong Kong but you'll
also probably pay the difference in headaches. I'm the wrong person
to ask because I had a miserable experience with buying a camera.
The four or five stores I went to all gave me the most despicable, xenophobic,
sarcastic service I've ever experienced. I don't mean to prejudice
you, just prepare you. They also had a warped sense of competition
-- "shopping around" is blasphemy and offensive so don't plan on going
back to anyone once they give you a price. When I tried this, one
&^#*% went to the extreme of acting friendly and saying that he would
give me the camera at the said price when it came in the next morning,
just so he could laugh in my face when I showed up. When I tell you,
the anger I felt at that moment was Satanic -- some 5'2", horribly ugly
stringbean laughing with his friends and calling me "Stupid f'ing American."
I was sick with rage for a couple of days, but I have to tell you, I won.
He baited me and I resisted. He would've loved nothing more than
to explain to a Chinese police officer how I broke his nose -- as they
carted me off to a Chinese prision. I warn you now, don't leave the
sunny US if you can't control your temper.
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Q: What are the best trips to take in
Vietnam?
A: Depends on your philosophy. The War Crimes Museum
and Cuchi Tunnels are fascinating but extremely disturbing. I had
a lot more "fun" seeing the Mekong Delta, the rivers, the people...
Don't stay in Ho Chi Mihn -- very dirty and unsafe. In retrospect,
I would go to Angkor Wat.
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Q: Where did you stay in port? Did
you stay on the boat or did you travel and what were the cheapest rooms
you could find?
A: I slept on the ship about half the time in port.
It really depends on your wallet: save money by eating and sleeping on
ship so you can go out at least once in port. When you're in port,
it often doesn't pay to sleep in town: you'll probably get a worse night's sleep anyway. Otherwise hostels are pretty cheap -- $15-30 a night.
Israel sticks out in my mind as a great country for hostels -- clean, safe,
and social. Another option is staying with families (as SAS trips),
which can be an incredible experience.
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Q: Can you send stuff home in the mail
and is it expensive?
A: I didn't mail anything for fear of loss or handling
like Jim Carrey in the first scene of Pet Detective -- this ain't exactly
FedEx. I also heard horror stories of post office workers ripping off
stamps to resell and filing your mail in the garbage. Everyone told
me, "never just give the letters to the worker, ask for the stamps and
put them on yourself," but I lost very few letters I sent. Another
reason I didn't send anything bigger than a letter is that it's fun on
the two-week trip home to weep over your box of gifts with friends and
realize in one enlightened coup how vastly and fundamentally different
you are from the person that was blowing kisses to mom on the dock.
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Q: Can I bring a cell phone? Is there Internet access on the ship or in port?
A: Didn't see a single Internet cafe in Fall of '95, but I'm sure that's changed. Needless to say, use a hotmail or other internet account. If you want to keep the pop account, though, there's a great website at mailstart.com where you can check a pop account over the Internet.
Neetu Sabnani (S'99) adds: "We were not allowed to have cell phones. They did not let us use www or email, even thought we had the capabilities. We did have about 25 computers in the lab and 4 printers."
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Q: How much did you spend on food in the
countries?
A: There's obviously an enormous difference between countries, but I would count on at least $3 for breakfast, $5-10 for lunch
and $10-25 for dinner. This can be scaled way down by eating lunch
on the ship (which I found to be actually decent) or if you're willing
to bring a jar of peanut butter and take bread from the ship and make sandwiches the night before.
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Q: What things did you pack but not need,
and what didn't you pack that you wish you had?
A: The only thing I can think of that I didn't need was
a lot of pre-bottled water -- just bring two or three good, sturdy bottles and fill them up on the water fountains on ship. Don't even think about
drinking water abroad -- I got "Black Hairy Tongue" in China. (It
might have been food poisoning, they didn't know, but I'll tell you anyway.) Kind of disgusting -- my tongue turned black as coal and any motion for
two days, including deep breaths, made me vomit the depths of my intestines
at the quizzical and monolingual Chinese doctor. Anyway... :)
Be sure to bring:
1. Little things like plastic bags, rubber bands, masking tape, string,
etc., even if it's inconceivable now that you could ever use them.
They take up no room (take the cardboard core out of the masking tape so you can crush it flat) and will be invaluable at sea. The gift shop, unfortunately, really is gifts and nothing useful.
2. A couple of rolls of quarters for laundry.
3. A bunch of small gifts for host families, friends you make in the
countries, and children you see. Pins, stickers, maps, as well as
some nicer gifts, the more creative the better.
4. Plenty of one-dollar bills--100 or so. For gifts and convenience.
Keep a bunch in your pocket so that you can buy postcards and knick-knacks
without pulling out you life savings. Don't worry, they work as well
or better than native currency. Actually, some people only
take American currency. In Russia, I've been told, it's actually
illegal to bring rubles back into the country -- once you buy them, you keep 'em! Definitely buy a flat "waist wallet" that you wear under your clothes.
5. Photos from home to show your new friends.
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Q: I want to become a photographer. My interest in a semester at sea is to learn about different countries, take in culture and build my portfolio. Are these intentions good or is this a bad idea?
A: I'm no moralist, but I think wanting to see and photograph the world is one of the most honorable reasons of all. And why do you want to build your portfolio? So that you can succeed as a photographer and continue taking pictures of the world. I would sleep easy if I were you.
If your question was whether this will, realistically, give you some good shots, I'd have to say that won't be a problem either. I've never been so inspired to take up photography in my life, and I had never picked up a camera before in my life.
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Q: What exactly can you get credit-wise from the courses you take while you are there?
A: Depends on whether your home school accepts it, but usually normal college credit. Just be sure to get it cleared before you go...be sure to tell them Stanford and Dartmouth accept the credits! :)
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Q: When do you recommend going on SAS, and how far in advance should you apply?
A: I really enjoyed the fall voyage, which takes the northern route around Africa rather than the south, but next time I think I'd like to do the other. I'd say look at the itineraries and decide whether you're more interested in Asia Minor/Mediterranean or Southern Africa. Then give yourself enough time to read up on the countries, maybe learn a few words, get a taste for the food, etc.-- a year or more would be optimal. If you're going to spend the money for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, get the most out of it and force yourself to do your homework.
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Q: How selective is the admissions team for SAS? Is the semester very academic?
A: No idea, I just know I got in. Honestly, there were less-than-stellar 'students,' but whoever measures intelligence with books needs to stop living in one and get inspired. I'm oversimplifying, but I've met brilliant artists and photographers who thought 'Kant' was a British conjunction--heard 'idiots' pour music into a vast, starry ocean and feel myself being changed forever.
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